Jackie – Victory Patterns

Jackie__004

With sewing my own clothes, I started to get boldly about trying new styles. Styles, i would never have picked from a clothes rail. The process of making, seems to enlarge my possibilities. It`s the creative process, that makes a certain style to my own. From the vision in my mind until the finished garment made with my hands.

Jackie__001

When I first saw the line drawings of the Jackiedress, I didn`t now if it`s for me. Kristiann asked me if i feel like testing it. I slept over it. After imagine all the possible Jackies i could sew, i finally felt in love with a plain, simple and of course grey version. We take small steps, don`t we?

Jackie__003

I`m so glad I gave this style a change. I tryied it on for the first time and it felt great. So comfortable. A secret pyjama that makes you look properly dressed. A clean and simple chic without being to loud. Perfect for everyday. But i could also wear it for going out. I made it mine.

Jackie__005

Victory Patterns has designed an other dress i`m madly in love with. After Hannah and Trina she has set the standard high (see my version here and here). But Jackie doesn`t disappoint in any way. It`s a beautifully drafted pattern. The seamlines shapes the dress so nicely and the opening at the back is a lovely detail, that takes away some of the seriousness added by the high neckline. All is finished with a facing.

Jackie__010

The buttons on the back neck are glorious! I had some vintage ones in my stash, which i covered with the same fabric. Score!

Jackie__006

I sewed version one, with short sleeves. Size 2. The dress is drafted for a height range from 165-175 cm. I`m 168 cm tall and had to shorten the skirt about 12 cm (maybe about 3 cm too much). The hemline should end just below the knee.

Jackie__002

Fabric is a heavier cottonknit with some elastane. Like used for t-shirts. It drapes beautifully and is oh so comfortable. I found it locally.

Jackie__007

I finished all the hemlines with my new vintage industrial coverstitch. It`s such a beauty! It took me three!!! evenings until it was set up the right way and i finally had nice stitches. Small and bigger victories of a seamstress.

Jackie__008

More Jackies are already in planning. Thank you Kris for letting me test! I love that dress a lot!

Jackie__009

Pattern: Jackiedress by Victory Patterns

Fabric: Cotton/Elastane Knit purchased locally.

Helmi

helmi__005

February is over. Short month. My sewing goal this month was to sew a blouse (see project sew it). I do not own one single blouse until now. Sometimes one should try something new I thought. I tried, i really did. I made good resolutions, I bought the Helmiblouse pattern by named. I had my eyes on this one since it released last fall. For my Blouse sewing plans it was maybe not such a smart move. There is a dress version included as well. You can feel my dilemma, can you? Yes, you can see the result. I couldn`t help myself and went for the tunic version. I got a beautiful Helmitunicblouse. Ha. For me that totally counts! Oh how I love it!

helmi__001

Clean seamlines, the hidden button planket. The mandarin collar. The beautiful shaped hemline. Nothing too much. So my style.

By the way, Named just released the Spring Summer 2017 collection today. Check it out!

helmi__002

The fabric is special! It`s a double-faced one. On the inside is a nice grey cotton and on the outside there is this really soft and warm wool. I bought it from `in the beer`in Belgium. Marte visited this store with me. She looked at this fabric when I pulled it out from a big staple and just said, a real Nina fabric. It is.

I wanted to sew the whole dress with this fabric. But luckily it wasn`t enough. So I picked this beautiful sand-crepe out of my stash. It has a lovely weight and drape. I had just enough for the skirt part. It was meant to be!

helmi__007

A dress without Pockets. Doesn`t work for me. I never know where to store my hands. I used a piece of the wool as pocket lining. Cold hands, not with this dress. For a bit of visual interest I added some rivets. They were black, but lost their color after the first wash.

helmi__003

The hem is finished with a facing. I`m addicted.

helmi__006

To make up a balance. It`s not really a blouse, when a blouse is defined by the length. But at least, I made a garment i truly love and perhaps is more in use, than a piece of garment i was not sure if it would fit into my wardrobe so well. I call it a success.

helmi__004

Pattern: Helmi Tunic and Blouse by Named Patterns

Fabric: From in the beer Belgium (Bodice) Skirt fabric bought locally.

Frederique deux fois

marte__003

Spring, we`re ready. The first kind of sunny and warm days arrived around here. There is no better time to start sewing my little girls spring wardrobe. We already spotted the first snowdrop flowers in our garden. I await them eagerly every year. It means the cold days gonna pass by soon. Spring will arrive and that makes me happy. Flowerprints are not so much for me. But for the Frederique Dress at this time of the year, it just felt right. Compagnie M just released THE dress, I felt like sewing in my ihaveenoughfromwintermood mood.

marte__006

Colorful, sweet and fresh it had to be. With cute little details like the bow in the back, piped pockets and of course the easy cuffs. To calm down the busy print I decided to use white fabric with a touch of mint in it, for all the details. And it worked out so well.

marte__005

I made two small pattern hacks. I added a gathered skirt. This is a very easy adjustment. Just add some wide to the patternpieces and gather it back to the original waist size. Keep in mind you don`t want gathers over the pockets. Second, I sewed on the cuffs differently than suggested in the instructions. As i like them folded up i sewed them on right-side of the cuff, facing wrong-side of the sleeve. Then i folded up the cuff, hiding the SA between the Cuff and the Sleeve. Understitch from the inside of the sleeve. If you want your cuffs to stay up, this gives a very nice finish. Add a button or some stitches to secure everything in place.

marte__004marte__001marte__007

Fabric is from Petit Pan. I bought it together with Marte while visiting Antwerp. Such a beautiful city by the way.

marte__002

When I have a pattern with many options it`s sometimes really difficult for me to make a choice. I`m not to good in making decisions anyway. Yes, i ended up sewing two Frederiques. Could be worser. My girl is more than happy that she got two dresses instead of the one i promised her.

marte__009

This dress has a totally different vibe, even if it`s from the very same pattern. This one actually was the first I sewed. It`s a size 4Y. She needs the length, not the wide (lazy me). For the second dress i made the very fast adjustment and sewed her a size 3Y with the length of a size 4. Perfect fit.

marte__012

The fabric was bought in Paris 3 years ago, in one of the fabricshops around Montmartre. A borderprint shirting cotton. It was cheap but a very reasonable quality. It behaved very well. I love that I managed to line up everything. And that i didn`t had to cut up the print. I joined the pocket piece to the sidepanel, this way you`re able to sew a continuous piping all the way down. Too nice! Congrats Marte, this Pattern will be so loved. It`s all we love about your brand. A versatile pattern with beautiful seamlines and lot`s of options to play with.

marte__013

Pattern: Frederique Dress by Compagnie M

Fabric: Dress Nr. 1 Petit Pan, Dress Nr 2 bought locally

 

 

 

Kielo Shift Dress

kyelo_shiftdress__004

This dress was lying in the darkest edge of my closet for nearly a year. It looked a bit different back then I`ve to admit. His story starts back in 2015, I was in need of a dress i could wear for Christmas. Nothing fancy. I was pregnant, my belly was already uncomfortable big, let`s call it huge. Maternity patterns are most of the time… hmm. (how can i say that in a friendly way) Just not that much my style. I thought the Kielo Pattern by Named would fit the bill and have enough room for a big belly. Specially, when sewn in a knit fabric. It actually could work, though. But not in this particular fabric. There is nothing wrong with the fabric. It`s a beautiful double-knit. Firm, heavy with not that much stretch, great recovery. Not the attributes you would name, if you search for a good match with the Kielo pattern. I don`t know what drawn me to this fabric, probably I just felt like being comfy, cozy and warm. With the result, that I looked even huger than I actually was. Any way you looked at it, it was just not flattering. When i was back in shape after pregnancy i gave it a change again. It was hopeless. I just picked the wrong fabric for this project. Sad dress went back on the shelf.

kyelo_shiftdress__001

Until a day, I found it again. I felt a bit ashamed when I saw the dress in my closet. I hate it when something isn`t working out how i imagined. And having wasted that beautiful fabric felt even worser.

kyelo_shiftdress__002

The fabric. Most of my projects start with the fabric. A fabric should work well with a pattern. And then it occurred to me. Heavy, good recovery, little stretch. This fabric has to be a shift dress.

kyelo_shiftdress__005

The Shoulder, neckline and the sleeves fitted very well. Everything I had to do was lay it on top of a well-fitting knitdress and trace the shape from under the armpit to the seamline. I reused the straps of the Kielo, attached them to the waistline and I was good to go. 15 minutes guys.

kyelo_shiftdress__006kyelo_shiftdress__007

I ended up with the most beautiful and well-fitting shift dress I ever owned. It`s so sexy without being loud. So casual but still so chic on the same time. I love versatile clothes. That`s probably what describes my style the best. I love clothes that can be worn in any situation. Being with kids, Business, friends, going out. Everyday. Clothes i want to wear for all the opportunities. That`s one of those genius dresses.

kyelo_shiftdress__009

By the way one little side note about my shoes. They`re new. You may now that I`m a bit of a sucker for Doc Martens. I wear their boots like all the time. The same pair since 8 years (winter version) and 10 years (rest of the year version). Emm, yes. I like to invest in quality that lasts for a long time. This year i thought it`s time for a more grown up version. Still have to get used to them. They work with a dress as well as with jeans. Win.

So here i`ll leave you with a last view on the nice backdarts of the Kielo that gives the dress such a nice shape.

kyelo_shiftdress__008

Pattern: Kielo by Named with the free long Sleeve. (Modified)

Fabric: Double knit, bought locally in Freiburg (Germany)

Hannah

hannah__002

Hannah, wins the award, for the most clever pattern I`ve sewn so far. It`s just awesome how everything comes together. I really had to sew it up until i completely understood how it works. I had to follow the instructions while sewing, something i don`t do that often. But they`re so well made. You won`t get lost.

hannah__003

I love everything about the design. The clear style lines. The curved hem, the deep pockets. I`m specially in love with the deep pockets. I just store my hands in there the whole day. Beautiful, how the crossover back detail ends up in the pockets, isn`t it?

hannah__004

The fabric I used, is a proundly-cherished one. I got it from Marte of Compagnie M. She spotted it for me and knew, i would love it a lot. And i really do! She`s such a sweet person. I`m so happy, we got in touch through Parissewsocial. I found a worthy place for this special gift, though.

hannah__001

I finished this dress some time ago. But never came around to take pictures. I wore it all the time. The last sunny days went and winter came. And I ended up taking pictures on a very freezing cold day. That`s how it goes.

hannah__005

I sewed a straight size 4, down to my measurements. The only thing I might change on a second version is to lower the armscye just a tiny bit. But that`s just a personal preference. The dress is drafting perfection!

hannah__006

Pattern: Hannahdress by Victory Patterns

Fabric: Bought locally in Belgium

Split Hi-Low Hem Tutorial

waffle__003

I`m not the person, who makes resolutions on the beginning of a new year. This year I made one. Sewing related of course. I stopped buying clothes more than 2 years ago. There are a lot of reasons for. First, I want to know, who makes my clothes and to which conditions. Second but not less important point is that our clothes, or the way we buy clothes is eco-unfriendly. That`s why, I decided to stop buying and make it myself. Now, i know exactly who made my clothes and because i made them myself, they bring me so much joy. Pieces i love to wear everyday for hopefully a long time. For 2017 it`s my goal to sew all the stuff, which is really missing in my closet. You know, the stuff you don`t fancy to sew, when there is just an other nice dresspattern on your table. Like sweaters, t-shirts, leggins and underwear. Yes underwear.

waffle__004

To help me to stick at my mission I decided to sew along with Project sew it. I`ll try to sew  a wardrobe stable item for myself or my husband every month. Or even better, for both of us.

waffle__002

January was all about sweaters. Haha, yes. Waffle knit sweaters for Mr. and Mrs. Fliegfederfrei. We`re not going to wear them on the same day, of course.

It`s not the same fabric actually, mine is a Waffle knit from Miss Matatabi. It`s very beautiful with the white reverseside. The one of Mr. Fliegfederfrei is bought locally in Belgium. The cuffs and the detail on the neck are made with the backside of this fabric. Different, but not less beautiful.

You may be interested in the nice split detail I added to my Inari sweater. I made you a Tutorial.

 

SPLIT HI-LOW HEM TUTORIAL

 

split_hem1split_hem2split_hem3

waffle__005

I used the Inari cropped tee pattern by Named. I planned to try out the free long sleeve. With my fabric it didn`t work. The sleeve was really baggy. Maybe because of the weight of the Waffleknit. I seamripped it out again and went for the short sleeve pattern piece which comes with the Inari and just lengthened it to my measurements. Much better. The hemline is extended as described in the tutorial.

waffle__006

Mr. Fliegfederfrei wears a modified Finlayson Sweater by Thread Theory. A size S with extra length. The neckdetail is selfdrafted. Read more about his previous Finlayson Sweater here. He wears his handmade sweaters as soon as they`re out of the laundry. It`s so nice to sew for him.

waffle__007

I really like our new sweaters and I`m quite sure I would probably not have sewn two sweaters without the extra motivation of Project sew it. January was a success.

waffle__001

It`s Friday

friday__006

Yesterday, the Fridaydress by petit a petit and Family finally released. It`s a timeless, modern shirt dress with lots of options.

static1-squarespace-com

 

A perfect dress pattern for any occasion. Sew a chic and sparkling one for Christmas, or just a relaxed dress for everyday wear. This pattern can cover it. You like a feminine touch or maybe more casual, you`ll be fine. Luckily you can sew a ton of different dresses from it, then once you decide to dive into shirt making, you`ll see it`s addictive!

friday__001

My girl is a size 3. And the fit is spot on. During the pattern testing, I tested version D (waistband and semi-circle skirt). A bad choice. Don`t get me wrong. I love the look. Perfect for a tween who has kind of a waist. It was not so flattering on my little girl who still has a sweet baby bump. I didn`t like it. I couldn`t stand calling it a fail after so much time I spent on it. I carefully seamripped the skirt away from the bodice. Then i added panels until i had the wide of the view B skirt. I gathered and reattached everything. Now, with the gathered skirt, no waistband and the buttons all the way down, she looks super sweet. She felt like trying on the dress as soon as i cut the threads to my sewing machine and didn`t take it off again. A very good sign.

friday__005

It`s also a good style for smaller children because it`s easy to get in and out. And the deep sideseam pockets are a highlight as always. I finished the whole dress with flat felled seams. Time-consuming fun, I enjoy while making a button up. The inside looks just so pretty.

friday__002

I couldn`t resist using Snaps. Buttonholes aren`t my favorite part of Shirt making. I was more than happy to skip this part. It`s for a toddler, so whatever, it`s practical.

friday__008

I had fun playing with the stripes. By the way, I sew a big piece of those nicely bias-matched stripes and then i place my pattern pieces on it. So much easier, than trying to match those little already cut out pieces.

friday__004

I used a nice yarn dyed Japanese selvedge cotton from Miss Matatabi. It sews up like a dream. Good quality fabric is a live safer when sewing a shirt dress. As a little extra I could use the contrasting selvedge as a eye-catcher on the small pocket.

We`re happy, and I caught the bug. Friday we`ll be good friends! I hope you feel like sewing your own Friday dress. You can get your copies here.

friday__003

Pattern: Friday Dress by petit a petit Patterns. –> View B without any alterations.

Fabric: yarn dyed selvedge cotton from Miss Matatabi