Jackie – Victory Patterns

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With sewing my own clothes, I started to get boldly about trying new styles. Styles, i would never have picked from a clothes rail. The process of making, seems to enlarge my possibilities. It`s the creative process, that makes a certain style to my own. From the vision in my mind until the finished garment made with my hands.

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When I first saw the line drawings of the Jackiedress, I didn`t now if it`s for me. Kristiann asked me if i feel like testing it. I slept over it. After imagine all the possible Jackies i could sew, i finally felt in love with a plain, simple and of course grey version. We take small steps, don`t we?

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I`m so glad I gave this style a change. I tryied it on for the first time and it felt great. So comfortable. A secret pyjama that makes you look properly dressed. A clean and simple chic without being to loud. Perfect for everyday. But i could also wear it for going out. I made it mine.

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Victory Patterns has designed an other dress i`m madly in love with. After Hannah and Trina she has set the standard high (see my version here and here). But Jackie doesn`t disappoint in any way. It`s a beautifully drafted pattern. The seamlines shapes the dress so nicely and the opening at the back is a lovely detail, that takes away some of the seriousness added by the high neckline. All is finished with a facing.

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The buttons on the back neck are glorious! I had some vintage ones in my stash, which i covered with the same fabric. Score!

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I sewed version one, with short sleeves. Size 2. The dress is drafted for a height range from 165-175 cm. I`m 168 cm tall and had to shorten the skirt about 12 cm (maybe about 3 cm too much). The hemline should end just below the knee.

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Fabric is a heavier cottonknit with some elastane. Like used for t-shirts. It drapes beautifully and is oh so comfortable. I found it locally.

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I finished all the hemlines with my new vintage industrial coverstitch. It`s such a beauty! It took me three!!! evenings until it was set up the right way and i finally had nice stitches. Small and bigger victories of a seamstress.

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More Jackies are already in planning. Thank you Kris for letting me test! I love that dress a lot!

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Pattern: Jackiedress by Victory Patterns

Fabric: Cotton/Elastane Knit purchased locally.

Helmi

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February is over. Short month. My sewing goal this month was to sew a blouse (see project sew it). I do not own one single blouse until now. Sometimes one should try something new I thought. I tried, i really did. I made good resolutions, I bought the Helmiblouse pattern by named. I had my eyes on this one since it released last fall. For my Blouse sewing plans it was maybe not such a smart move. There is a dress version included as well. You can feel my dilemma, can you? Yes, you can see the result. I couldn`t help myself and went for the tunic version. I got a beautiful Helmitunicblouse. Ha. For me that totally counts! Oh how I love it!

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Clean seamlines, the hidden button planket. The mandarin collar. The beautiful shaped hemline. Nothing too much. So my style.

By the way, Named just released the Spring Summer 2017 collection today. Check it out!

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The fabric is special! It`s a double-faced one. On the inside is a nice grey cotton and on the outside there is this really soft and warm wool. I bought it from `in the beer`in Belgium. Marte visited this store with me. She looked at this fabric when I pulled it out from a big staple and just said, a real Nina fabric. It is.

I wanted to sew the whole dress with this fabric. But luckily it wasn`t enough. So I picked this beautiful sand-crepe out of my stash. It has a lovely weight and drape. I had just enough for the skirt part. It was meant to be!

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A dress without Pockets. Doesn`t work for me. I never know where to store my hands. I used a piece of the wool as pocket lining. Cold hands, not with this dress. For a bit of visual interest I added some rivets. They were black, but lost their color after the first wash.

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The hem is finished with a facing. I`m addicted.

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To make up a balance. It`s not really a blouse, when a blouse is defined by the length. But at least, I made a garment i truly love and perhaps is more in use, than a piece of garment i was not sure if it would fit into my wardrobe so well. I call it a success.

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Pattern: Helmi Tunic and Blouse by Named Patterns

Fabric: From in the beer Belgium (Bodice) Skirt fabric bought locally.

Kielo Shift Dress

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This dress was lying in the darkest edge of my closet for nearly a year. It looked a bit different back then I`ve to admit. His story starts back in 2015, I was in need of a dress i could wear for Christmas. Nothing fancy. I was pregnant, my belly was already uncomfortable big, let`s call it huge. Maternity patterns are most of the time… hmm. (how can i say that in a friendly way) Just not that much my style. I thought the Kielo Pattern by Named would fit the bill and have enough room for a big belly. Specially, when sewn in a knit fabric. It actually could work, though. But not in this particular fabric. There is nothing wrong with the fabric. It`s a beautiful double-knit. Firm, heavy with not that much stretch, great recovery. Not the attributes you would name, if you search for a good match with the Kielo pattern. I don`t know what drawn me to this fabric, probably I just felt like being comfy, cozy and warm. With the result, that I looked even huger than I actually was. Any way you looked at it, it was just not flattering. When i was back in shape after pregnancy i gave it a change again. It was hopeless. I just picked the wrong fabric for this project. Sad dress went back on the shelf.

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Until a day, I found it again. I felt a bit ashamed when I saw the dress in my closet. I hate it when something isn`t working out how i imagined. And having wasted that beautiful fabric felt even worser.

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The fabric. Most of my projects start with the fabric. A fabric should work well with a pattern. And then it occurred to me. Heavy, good recovery, little stretch. This fabric has to be a shift dress.

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The Shoulder, neckline and the sleeves fitted very well. Everything I had to do was lay it on top of a well-fitting knitdress and trace the shape from under the armpit to the seamline. I reused the straps of the Kielo, attached them to the waistline and I was good to go. 15 minutes guys.

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I ended up with the most beautiful and well-fitting shift dress I ever owned. It`s so sexy without being loud. So casual but still so chic on the same time. I love versatile clothes. That`s probably what describes my style the best. I love clothes that can be worn in any situation. Being with kids, Business, friends, going out. Everyday. Clothes i want to wear for all the opportunities. That`s one of those genius dresses.

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By the way one little side note about my shoes. They`re new. You may now that I`m a bit of a sucker for Doc Martens. I wear their boots like all the time. The same pair since 8 years (winter version) and 10 years (rest of the year version). Emm, yes. I like to invest in quality that lasts for a long time. This year i thought it`s time for a more grown up version. Still have to get used to them. They work with a dress as well as with jeans. Win.

So here i`ll leave you with a last view on the nice backdarts of the Kielo that gives the dress such a nice shape.

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Pattern: Kielo by Named with the free long Sleeve. (Modified)

Fabric: Double knit, bought locally in Freiburg (Germany)

Hannah

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Hannah, wins the award, for the most clever pattern I`ve sewn so far. It`s just awesome how everything comes together. I really had to sew it up until i completely understood how it works. I had to follow the instructions while sewing, something i don`t do that often. But they`re so well made. You won`t get lost.

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I love everything about the design. The clear style lines. The curved hem, the deep pockets. I`m specially in love with the deep pockets. I just store my hands in there the whole day. Beautiful, how the crossover back detail ends up in the pockets, isn`t it?

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The fabric I used, is a proundly-cherished one. I got it from Marte of Compagnie M. She spotted it for me and knew, i would love it a lot. And i really do! She`s such a sweet person. I`m so happy, we got in touch through Parissewsocial. I found a worthy place for this special gift, though.

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I finished this dress some time ago. But never came around to take pictures. I wore it all the time. The last sunny days went and winter came. And I ended up taking pictures on a very freezing cold day. That`s how it goes.

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I sewed a straight size 4, down to my measurements. The only thing I might change on a second version is to lower the armscye just a tiny bit. But that`s just a personal preference. The dress is drafting perfection!

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Pattern: Hannahdress by Victory Patterns

Fabric: Bought locally in Belgium

Split Hi-Low Hem Tutorial

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I`m not the person, who makes resolutions on the beginning of a new year. This year I made one. Sewing related of course. I stopped buying clothes more than 2 years ago. There are a lot of reasons for. First, I want to know, who makes my clothes and to which conditions. Second but not less important point is that our clothes, or the way we buy clothes is eco-unfriendly. That`s why, I decided to stop buying and make it myself. Now, i know exactly who made my clothes and because i made them myself, they bring me so much joy. Pieces i love to wear everyday for hopefully a long time. For 2017 it`s my goal to sew all the stuff, which is really missing in my closet. You know, the stuff you don`t fancy to sew, when there is just an other nice dresspattern on your table. Like sweaters, t-shirts, leggins and underwear. Yes underwear.

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To help me to stick at my mission I decided to sew along with Project sew it. I`ll try to sew  a wardrobe stable item for myself or my husband every month. Or even better, for both of us.

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January was all about sweaters. Haha, yes. Waffle knit sweaters for Mr. and Mrs. Fliegfederfrei. We`re not going to wear them on the same day, of course.

It`s not the same fabric actually, mine is a Waffle knit from Miss Matatabi. It`s very beautiful with the white reverseside. The one of Mr. Fliegfederfrei is bought locally in Belgium. The cuffs and the detail on the neck are made with the backside of this fabric. Different, but not less beautiful.

You may be interested in the nice split detail I added to my Inari sweater. I made you a Tutorial.

 

SPLIT HI-LOW HEM TUTORIAL

 

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I used the Inari cropped tee pattern by Named. I planned to try out the free long sleeve. With my fabric it didn`t work. The sleeve was really baggy. Maybe because of the weight of the Waffleknit. I seamripped it out again and went for the short sleeve pattern piece which comes with the Inari and just lengthened it to my measurements. Much better. The hemline is extended as described in the tutorial.

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Mr. Fliegfederfrei wears a modified Finlayson Sweater by Thread Theory. A size S with extra length. The neckdetail is selfdrafted. Read more about his previous Finlayson Sweater here. He wears his handmade sweaters as soon as they`re out of the laundry. It`s so nice to sew for him.

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I really like our new sweaters and I`m quite sure I would probably not have sewn two sweaters without the extra motivation of Project sew it. January was a success.

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Madeit Fashion Week 2016

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Welcome to the Madeit Fashion Week 2016.

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I proudly present you my turn on the Dropdress. The new pattern by Madeit. It`s the dress you sew for yourself, when you don`t know what to wear tonight. Yes right. Even an hour before you should be ready to go out. Drop is sewn as fast as a t-shirt. It wears like a t-shirt. It may feel like a t-shirt, but gives you stylish and dressy look. With it`s long sleeves and the slash neck it`s the perfect dress for the cooler winter days. Wear it with a big scarf and you`re ready.

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The special drape detail just occurs to the asymmetrical cut. Very clever. I was excited about that dress on the first glimpse. Luckily, Olu let me test. By now, I got 4 versions. Can`t stop. It`s a dress you love to wear as a mum. Effortless and comfy to wear. but don`t be fooled by that. I feel so well dressed in my Drops.I even got some compliments, while wearing them. What do you want more?

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This striped version is made in a very nice french terry. It is thin and drapes very well. I found it locally. It`s a gorgeous fabric. I just have to get used to the white. Not a color that suits me very well, though. It makes me somehow palish. This was the very first version of the pattern. For the pretest. Since this version, the pattern changed a bit.

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My grey version is made from a normal t-shirt fabric style knit. It drapes way less beautifully but works as well. It`s not just plain grey, you can`t see it very well on the pictures, but it has some nice blue stripes running horizontally and vertically.

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The fabric choice can make all the difference with this top! Try a true knit, something with 4 way stretch or even a french terry. You`re drapes are going to be much more special!

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Madeit Fashion week is also a funny little contest about a great backdrop, between all the talented lady’s contributing. My theme is monochrome. From head to toe (my nails are grey as well accidentally). I just had to wear my Turban hat to make the look complet. This one is selfdrafted and i still have to tweak the pattern a bit. I allready love it a lot. It feel so sophisitcated to wear a turban.

Back to the Backdrop. I just attached Christmas wrapping paper on my wall and jumped in front of it. Looks funny doesn`t it?

You can win as well!!!

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So jump over to Madeit Patterns, no time to lose! And psst… you`ll get 20 % off your Drop during the fashion week! Use code MFW2016.

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Thank you for having me Olu and Anna!

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Drape Drape Dress no 3

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I sewed dress no 3 for my mum a few years ago. She wears it quite often. It`s a staple in her wardrobe. And every time she wear it, I`m reminded that i should make one for myself. She looks great in it by the way. Before we left on holiday the time has come. I was in need of a summer dress.

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Winter has arrived in Switzerland and those sunny days already feel like ages ago. looking at those pictures I feel the travel bug! Take me back!

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The Japanese Drape Drape book is probably one of my all time favorite sewingbooks. See here and here and here. That`s Dress no 3 out of the first book. I love that it`s made from just one patternpiece, like most of the design in this book.

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I traced the pattern, back when I sewed this dress for my mum. She`s short and skinny. Normally, her clothes fit me, even if I`m much taller. So, there was this pattern already traced out. I could just start cutting my fabric. Of course, I was too lazy to trace the pattern again. For the next one, i need to lower the waistline by about 2 cm and add about 5 cm to the hem (cough, cough). I guess with two kids i`m to old for such a short skirt. I`ll wear that dress with tights.

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The fabric is a beautiful silk knit. Very lightweight. It was a nightmare to sew. I needed something to stabilize the hemlines. Golden elastic. You have to go with what`s around, don`t you? This one, was just waiting for his big appearance. It`s my favorite detail on that dress.

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Pattern: Drape Drape Dress no 3

Fabric: Silk knit bought locally