Checks

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Sun and a lot of beautiful new fabric in my stash make me feel like sewing for myself. It`s a sewing storm going on those days. My head is full of ideas and inspiration, days would need more hours.

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I`m blown away by this fabric. It`s such a nice quality. I found it at Petite Couture. Wendy has an amazing selection of fabrics in her shop. Sadly, the fabric I used is out of stock. She can`t reorder, it`s a pity.

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Pattern is out of the Burda Style 09/2012 no. 134. It`s a design by the british fashion designer Matthew Williamson.

Smallest size is 36, I had to take in quite a bit to make it fit well. That`s why the side-parts do not line up exactly by the side seam. Too bad, but I can cope with it. I prefer a nice fit.

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The fabric hides the back walking slit perfectly. But there is one, a nice and handy detail on a pencil skirt.

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Side parts are the reverse of this gorgeous fabric. It provides a nice body shaping. Pockets make it comfy and casual. A new favorite!

Garçonne

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Who`d have thought, that grey wool pants can look so feminine? I felt in love with this fabric on a flea market, last sunday. It was a big ugly old trouser, but the fabric… just lovely. So I bought it. I immediately knew which pattern to take!

The Hudson Pants by True Bias. Even if they`re designed for knit fabric. It works perfectly well with woven too. I just cut a size bigger than I normally would.

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I mentioned previously, the fabric is upcycled. That`s the reason, why they are a bit too tight around the lower legs. There was just not enough fabric. Anyway they`re wearable.

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I guess you gonna see a few more Hudson Pants around here in the next few weeks. They`re a nice fit and a quick sew. And not to forget, they`re very comfy!

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A little photo bomber on his way. Can`t tell with words how much I love that girl!

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You probably already noticed, I added a little extra to the waistband. I think it adds a drop more elegance to the sporty cut.

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Spring fever

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Spring…. I`m ready! At least, I made myself the perfect bomber blouson. Just in case, maybe it helps to get rid of the snow. Can`t tell you how I love this bomber. I didn`t take it off since I cut the threads to my machine.

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The Pattern is from CUT Magazine (Issue 10, 01/14), it`s drafted by a young and hip german label, a kind of guise. They`re located in Munich.

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Usually, I don`t bother myself reading instructions. I learned to sew with Burda (you know what I mean?). But when I had a look at the tutorial it seemed like I wouldn`t get all this pieces together myself. So I just followed their way. And it was so worth it. The finishing is perfect. I learned something.

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I used my serger for the whole piece. I`ve no regrets about buying a good serger (even if I spent all my savings). Perfect seams, always.

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Yes, let`s talk fabric. The beautiful mustard jersey with the diamonds is maybe the softest knit I ever sewed with! The print is  adorable and sharp. I ordered at Petit Couture.

The quilted knit is from Miss Matatabi, I already used it here.

Can`t wait for the warm and sunny days!

Secret Valentine

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Happy Valentines Day you all! Sanae and Ute, are hosting the Secret Valentine Exchange. You can read all about it here. The game is easy, you’re going to make a handmade gift for somebody and get one in exchange, from somebody else. Such a nice idea.

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Frau Gold, sent me this absolutely beautiful, sweet and thoughtful surprise. I just love the cap. Look at my little bean wearing it. Too cute! It doesn`t happen that often, that I receive a handmade gift. It is something special. It means a lot to me. If you make a handmade gift, you have to spend your time, work with your hands and your heart, to create something totally unique, just for this person.

The gift I received, was made with so much care. All this little details. It`s perfect! Thank you so much!!!

I don`t know if my SVE Partner got his gift already. I had to make a surprise for Mirta from mi+ed design. You have to check out her blog. I`m in love with her illustration and prints!

I made her a Yubinuki bracelet. I found a tutorial for that in Mollie Makes (12/2014). It was a lot of fun, even if you have to be really patient. I tried a new pattern. It didn`t work out how I imagined. But I like the outcome as well. Finally, I made a linen zipper pouch and some self-made bias tape ( I didn`t take a picture). I hope she will like it. It`s made with love and good thoughts.

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Plain Pleats

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I didn`t make so many pleats for just one garment before, I guess. But, it was worth the effort. The fabric source is an old scarf, I found at a flea market once. I felt in love with the colors and the soft linen. It was like made for the dress I had in mind.

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I imagined a low waist dress, without a gathered skirt. So I just took the whole width of the scarf and pleated the bodice part. The pattern is self drafted. I pleated the fabric first, then I cut out the pattern pieces. That`s way easier than calculate all those pleats in the pattern.

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I wanted to add tulip sleeves to one of my projects for a long time. I think it`s a good match with this dress.

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I planned to attach pockets. Fabric was cut out and ready. I just forgot to sew them in. As I noticed my fault, I was too lazy to unpick the side seams, I left them out.

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I love the plain and smooth look of this dress. I guess, it`s going to look even softer, when the linen crinkles after washing.

Ready to… wear?

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When I felt in love with the Lotta dress by Compagnie-M, my little bean was much to small for a size 1Y. But, that`s exactly where the size range starts. As I`m not a very rational being, i couldn`t wait until she`ll be big enough. And of course, I was much to lazy to size it down. I just sewed the smallest size, prepared to wait more than half a year until she`ll be able to wear it, actually. Kind of silly, I know.

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I seems like she`s rather small, I thought, that she could probably wear it on her first birthday. But nope. I had to wait, until she was 16 months old. Every time, when I opened her closed I saw this nice dress. I don`t know how many times she had to try it on, just to put it back on the hanger for an other month.

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She doesn`t understand, what`s the meaning of the pockets. Nonetheless, they`re seem to be funny.

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I can`t remember why I went for the button closure (that`s just one of three options). It looks nice on the hanger. But when she`s wearing it, I do not really like the look. Do you see what I mean? Next time, I would install a zipper for sure!

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The dress is lined with silk. It`s so soft, it feels good on the skin. Silk is such a beautiful material, it`s like water to sew with.

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Oh, I nearly forgot to introduce you to Rosalie, the co-star in this shooting. It was her first stuffed friend (and is still her only one), she`s much loved!

Water and Light

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I really made my dress a few cm shorter, just to save some of this beautiful fabric for her. It was exactly enough, to make this tinny little babydoll. Even though, I had to be creative. Sometimes, I ask myself, does it just happen to me? It seems like, I always have barely enough fabric.

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I wanted to show the different shades of color on the bodice too. As the squares are quite big, I went for a patchwork. I like the result!

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I`m not a patchworker, but I didn`t go for straight squares. I wanted it to look like the design on the skirt. Probably I shouldn`t say that… i did it with my serger.

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The dress is self-drafted. I love the shoulder part. If you ask me, the boxy shape is a nice contrast to the smooth skirt fabric.

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Usually, if I come up with a new dress and ask her to try it on, she says no-no and walks away as fast as can be. But this time, she took the dress in her hands and tried to pull it over her head. As if to say, what a beautiful dress you made me, mummy. She couldn`t make me a bigger compliment. I was touched!

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Drape, tuck and gather

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What`s first…? The idea, the fabric or the pattern? For me, that`s not always a straight path. Mostly, everything starts with an idea in my mind, find the perfect pattern and fabric for, is a second step. But this time, in the beginning there was this fabric. I purchased it maybe half a year ago. I just loved the colors, they dovetails nicely with my hair, I think. It`s a Nani Iro double gauze from Miss Matatabi. If you follow along, you may know, i`m a bit crazy about Nani Iro. Not for nothing, this is maybe the softest double gauze I ever owned. It drapes so nicely.

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It had to be a flowing robe, nothing fitted. You may remember my drape drape dress. This was my inspiration. I just wanted a dress, mostly made from one piece of fabric. Loosely draped around my body. I spent a few hours in front of a mirror, just to tuck everything in place. I own a dress-form with my measurements, but it didn’t work. I had to learn, that the movement of the body is the factor that changes everything. So I worked with my own body. Putting the dress on and off, sitting half-naked in front of the sewing machine. Just because, it took me to much time to get dressed and undressed between all those fittings.

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It was a lot of hand-sewing. You wan`t find a better fabric for that. There is just one visible seam on this dress… All the tucks and gathers are blind-stiched to the inner layer of the double gauze.

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Here you have it, my new years dress, I`m not going to wear. We don`t celebrate. I`m going to work this evening like I do every year. Doesn`t matter, I don`t mind. There`ll be a few opportunities to wear this dress next year, sure.

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I feel like a christmas tree in our garden…! Yes, it was f***ing cold. The whole photo shoot took about 1 minute. I just ran out, and Mr. Fliegfederfrei made a few pictures. And then back to the warm and cosy fire-place in the house. Happy new year you all!

Julia`s Secret

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I had the chance to test an other Compagnie M Pattern, the Julia sweater. It seems like i make it to a habit, to test her patterns. But, it`s just because they`re truly great. I always find a way, to make them my own. You probably saw a few Julia`s by now. Then you`ll notice, mine is a bit different. Not a big thing. I just changed the back piece to a low-backed one. It gives the sweater an entirely different look.

You can find a small tutorial on the end of the post.

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That`s julias Secret, it`s a versatile pattern who can change his appearance easily. I wan`t go into all the various options. Marte showed all her gorgeous version during the last week. Just have a look and you`ll get an idea!

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In the front, it`s a basic dolman sleeved sweater. Truly one to live in. I didn`t pull it off since I finished it. That speaks for itself! And that`s why… I had to sew a second one.

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In a very wonderful quilted knit fabric I found at Miss Matatabi (yes, I do shop there a lot).

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You may ask about the yellow stripes. It`s kind of a flat piping. I just cut a strip of yellow knit fabric, press it in half and sew it into the seam. Exactly, as you would do it with a piping. I think there is a special serger foot to do so, i do it without. No big deal. But if you ask me, a very cool detail.

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You would like to give it a go?

Here is my how to… it`s quite easy! I`ll give you a view on my altered back-pattern piece.

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You just measure down the fold on the center back, until your taille. Draft a new neckline with the help of a curved lineal. Start at the shoulder seam head down until your taille high on the center back. Easy as pie. You could even draw it free hand. Just be sure to draft it on fold. You want it to be exactly symmetrical on both sides. If you think that you don`t feel comfortable without wearing a bra, you can draft your new neckline just as deep, so it will still cover it. Be creative!

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To finish the raw edge I attached a self-made double folded knit-band. I do that with my coverlook (great to have!). You can do it your prefered way, everything works. Because the sweater has a loose silhouette, I attached a knit-strap on the shoulder seam, to hold the sweater in place.

You can get your Julia here.

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Glitter, Glam and Pixy Charm

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I sewed a dress…  so exciting. She`s gonna wear it at Christmas Eve. That`s a fine excuse, to explain her daddy why she`s in need of an other one. Doesn`t she look like a little pixy?

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When I first saw the Blake Dress by Mingo and Grace, I instantly knew it would be the perfect pattern for this occasion. I made her a size 2 Y and it fit`s like a glove. I used my precious herring bone nani iro from Miss Matatabi. This fabric is a dream. Such a soooft double gauze. It`s like linen it doesn`t matter if it`s creased. I love it, even if double gauze really has a mind on his own, some times.

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The dress is fully lined and just to add a little glam factor (come on, it`s Christmas), I attached two layers of golden organza . My little pixy is charmed by the sheen.

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Have a look at her shoes, i`m still testing my pattern, it`s nearly perfect. It takes me so much time to get it ready… But in the end it doesn`t matter. It has to make fun. It`s my passion, good things take time, as we say here.

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Happy Holidays in advance!